Friday, September 28, 2012

hi again,
i am in a really dark internet place, so please excuse the typing. here is what we have been up to.
we are now in zamora. we have walked 20k from salamanca not in rain as we feared but on a cool windy day, sunny i think. we arrived at the alberque at 1 or so. there were 4 bunkbeds in a very small room, i got one closest to the door so that i would have fresh air. buy evening we had a full house, a man from venezuela, 4 from france, a girl from itay and michael and i. what a forlorn town, lots of wind, nothing open really bleak. the next morning we started out at sunrise (8am) and it was beautiful. we walked 20 km alongside a highway. the path was comfortable but not my favorite for walking. we actually walked by a hhigh security prison with many announcements. that was a break in the monotomy. we arrived in another dusty town called el cubo de terre de vino. but never saw a grape vine. we were crabby, the town a bit strange. there were a bunch of dogs running around, and two men talking, one with a voice box that was so loud we heard it a block away from him, then we walked by a tall thin woman in red and white flowered pajamas, standing in front of her house talking on the phone. the first bar we tried was closed, there was a second at the far end of town. we went in there and sat.  maybe 20 men inside drinking, playing cards, loud and happy. the whole thing was a sensual overload, especially aflter 5 hours of nothing.it seemed like a pedro almodovar movie.
 i was sitting staring i think, and then a woman walked up and touched me on the shoulder. she smiled and spoke rapid spanish about the camino and wished me buen camino. it broke the spell i was in. suddenly things changed. michael and i got our coffree, the man at the bar gave us a delicious tapa and all was good. by the time we started walking again we were laughing. we walked anouther 13km that we both said was the most beautiful of the whole via de la plata.
we stayed in villanueva campean, in an empty albergue. we slept so well, and walked into zamora today, about 22 km i think.
anna and fabio are here, we will have dinner in a minute. in the moring they leave and the next morning michael leaves and i begin this adventure on my own. really, there are no pilgrims here. i will have lots of tiem to think and be lonesome i am sure. i am not the least bit nervouse about it. i feel strong and i love the walking, a little less along side a highway, but i still love it.
there is very little chance to write on this way.i will whenever i can.
 tomorrow i will bring my camera to the internet cafe and see if i can download some photos.
it´s time for the going away party. adios
love,
mom

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