Hi again,
First of all I'm back on the French keyboard so enjoy the challenge along with me, ok?
this week has been so much more calm, thank God. First the toe report- Dominique's are good, more or less, and we have been able to go long distances. I think I have walked 350 miles so far. The awesome thing is that two days ago we started to see see the Pyrenees. One morning they appeared like a thin blu\grey line on the horizon, like a pirate ship, then yesterday they were quite big and jagged and snow covered. They are beautiful, they seem to cover the entire horizon. It is exciting and anxiety causing at the same time. here we go, up and over; probably in four days.
Last Sunday we were at Toulouse, staying by the Church of St sernin, a bishop who was dragged by a bull to his death in 250ad. The hotel is on Rue de Taur, named that because of the incident. It is all so old. That is part of the joy of this walk, knowing that the same paths have been walked on for hundreds of years. We took the metro to the outskirts of Toulose to start our walking again (not the pilgrim way but more satisfying for two impatient people). One of the chambre d'hotes we stayed at was run by a masseuse so I had a foot massage! My feet deserved the treat after all the work they have done.
We have slept in luxury this week too. Everynight has been either someones home or a hotel. i never realized how much I loved sheets before this walk. Sheets really are one of lifes great pleasures.
For two days this week we have had the pleasure of walking with John from York. A perfect combination for Dominique and I, a man who speaks French but is English. I loved every minute of it. We talked about politics and religion and he listened patiently while I talked about how annoying it is to be led around not knowing what to expect from one minute to the next and how I was used to charting my own course and now I had no say in anything and blah blah blah. It felt so good to vent. We also laughed about old scenes from Faulty towers. He left for home today, both Dominique and I enjoyed the break. Three weeks being together 24- 7 is too much.
Let me talk a little about this area. For one thing, this is a region of paté fois gras. There are ducks and geese everywhere. I have had duck soup and duck legs and even fois gras. It was served with figs on toast. Nice but not worth the effort on the part of the bird I think: The crops are still sunflowers and corn; primarily. The land is brown, clay mostly. The fields go on forever. there are plently of hills so I can see forever. We seldom walk on asphalt. We are on paths through farm fields or on stones in forests. The temperature is like MN, cool enough for a jacket in the morning and hot in the afternoon.
I am happy to announce that I am the proud mother of a roller girl. Alison, aka Sweet Justice, is now on the team she wanted to be on. her first game is on 20 October. I am really happy for her and can,t wait for the first game I will be able to see.
I have loads of pictures and will try to get some attached here. Take care. Thank you for writing. I love reading your notes. I try to respond to you personally but for some reason my emails get sent back. I have no idea where I will have another café to write to you. Things look to be more and more remote for a while.
I love you all. Bye till Spain; I think.
Mary/mom.
Saturday, September 8, 2007
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12 comments:
Mary, are you sure you're going to be back before Christmas? 350 miles from 1,000....why don't you guys run a little bit? Seriously, it sounds as if all is well and I'm so happy for you. Are you meeting others along the way, or are you and Domi at your own pace? It seems that you've been gone longer than a month; but then, I told you I would actually miss you. Today I was shovelling rock with Darwin at Pathfinder. My back is fine, but my arms are a little sore. Something new for me! Take care...I'm pulling for you girl. Ginny
Mary, I love the pictures you are painting with your words. I hope you are getting a chance to do some drawing too, but with the pace you are going, perhaps not. How high up do you have to climb to get to the other side of the mountains?
Remember not to take the shortest road on the map!
I had a long chat with Rita after you called. I think she was going to call you.
All is well here. The weather is beautiful. I am in the middle of 6 days off in a row!
That's so exciting about Alison, or I should say "Sweet Justice." I hope I get to see a game some time. Alison, any trips to Vancouver on the schedule?
Mary, keep taking care of yourself, and I hope you meet some more interesting people on your journey.
Love,
Maggie
Mary,
I just got the blog address from my mother so I have a lot of reading to do in order to catch up. Meanwhile, I have been thinking about you alot and sending lots of positive energy your way. I was in Mpls, and River falls over Labor day weekend for a Larson family reunion that I organized, it was great and my intention now is to return to Mpls to live
Mary, a funny story. I went to a meeting tonight (audit the League of Women Voters books) at 7:00. When I got there, Sarah had forgotten about the meeting. Shirley had called her to verify it was tonight. There were only 3 of us. Sarah missed me and spoke to "a man at my house". So we rescheduled the meeting and I left. When I returned, Darwin was just finishing cleaning up the mess. When the phone rang, Troy started his usual barking tirade when he's not in the salon, flew off the chair on rollers in the garage which hit the handle on the keg in the fridge and the beer started flowing on the floor!! He had just finished cleaning up when I drove into the garage and Troy, of course, was back in the house resting. I laughed so hard I cried. Just a little humor for you from my crazy house...Ginny
Hi, Mary - So VERY glad to hear the walk is going more smoothly (and that Dominique is healing). I was more than a little worried about you!!! Under different circumstances a silent monastery visit could be deeply moving, but I think I would have grabbed a monk by the throat and demanded that he speak to me, in your situation. You are very patient. - I sure wish you would encounter more English-speaking pilgrims. It sounds so hard to go without talking for such a long time. - Okay, enough of that. Everything is sounding beautiful - the sunflowers, the wide vista of hills, the mountains, the weather. And I remember, from a walk I took in Wales, how much I loved the silence - no cars, no airplanes, just the birds and the wind, and sometimes rushing water. That silence, and breathing in the clean air, is transformative. - I am thinking of you often, and I see that many others are, too. We are with you in spirit, and are wishing you well! - Connie
Ciao Maria - Che donna cosi brava!
Quel stupenda avventura. I am in awe of how you are able to continue your peregrinaje with the obstacles you have encountered. I love reading your travelogues-your descriptions are so vivid - I feel as if I am walking besides you. Are the Pyrenees getting closer. I will miss reading your blog since we leave for Africa tomorrow. Tu sei molto fortunata d'avere un compagno cosi buono e gentile per fare la caminata. Spero che il dito del piede di Dominique e melliore adesso. Anchi lui e fotunato d'avere una donna cosi gentile e coraggiosa per fare il pellegrinaggio insieme.
I forgot to tell you Amy and I ran into the cutiest little boy at Crema a few weeks ago. Can you guess who that might be? None other than Oscar! Erica, Amy and I had a nice chat. Giovanni ed io ti mandiamo un abbraccio forte. Susan
What an adventure! I have no doubt that a woman who took wild bets on real estate in the mid west and overcame related challenges will also overcome any challenges that this journey throws at her. I'm proud of you!
Your #1 Canadian fan
Mary, a piece of sad news. Linda's mother died. It was either today, 9/13, or during the night on 9/12. I don't have much information yet. Just thought I would let you know this much. I'll get back to you with more.
Hi Mary,
Hope you are well and just want you to know that I am thinking of you often everyday. I am wondering how many days you will see the Pyrenees before you go up up up again. It must seem ominous.
You are giving us such a good description-- I think you will enjoy reading it when you get home.
Everything is good here. I got my new bed- Love it.
Love,
Barb
Mary -- Holy cow just discovered your blog. What an incredible adventure you are on -
Love your insights, descriptions, and ability to laugh at yourself (esp the part about you and your cute little scarf with the wild boar hunters).
I admire you sooooo much!
Mary-, remind me to tell you my funny story about Borgos -- it requires an accent so it cannot be done properly via the ether. I have never been so cold as I was the day we visited Borgos. It was so cold INSIDE the cathedral that our friend Sam decided to go buy a gorro (beret) to cover his bald head and we found a beautiful shop that only sold hats, right downtown. It was, in its own way, as beautiful and anachronistic as the cathedral. And it is a beautiful place. I remember eating lunch at a cafe that looked out to the very tall Roman acqueduct.
I showed Gregg your blog last night and his jaw dropped when he saw the map! I can picture the territory you describe as looking like Nebraska. We drove across it and I cannot imagine how vast it feels when you are walking.
I am going to have to hear more about the two D's when I see you in NY. I loved what you said about the camino being an exercise in letting go. Amazing how letting go of certain attachments only deepens others. Good-bye knife. Goodbye bra. Hello love.
XOXOX JL
Mary-, remind me to tell you my funny story about Borgos -- it requires an accent so it cannot be done properly via the ether. I have never been so cold as I was the day we visited Borgos. It was so cold INSIDE the cathedral that our friend Sam decided to go buy a gorro (beret) to cover his bald head and we found a beautiful shop that only sold hats, right downtown. It was, in its own way, as beautiful and anachronistic as the cathedral. And it is a beautiful place. I remember eating lunch at a cafe that looked out to the very tall Roman acqueduct.
I showed Gregg your blog last night and his jaw dropped when he saw the map! I can picture the territory you describe as looking like Nebraska. We drove across it and I cannot imagine how vast it feels when you are walking.
I am going to have to hear more about the two D's when I see you in NY. I loved what you said about the camino being an exercise in letting go. Amazing how letting go of certain attachments only deepens others. Good-bye knife. Goodbye bra. Hello love.
XOXOX JL
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