Hello everyone,
I have been waiting for the tears that everyone else has had and not me, until now, when I typed "Santiago". I know I have avoided this message because it is the end and I would like this to go on forever. The peace and love (really it´s the only word that fits) that I have felt on this journey is something I want to keep with me forever. That will be my prayer.
I did arrive yesterday, on a beautiful warm fall day. I walked in with two women from Denmark (Luna and Pulje) and an Austrian woman ( Monica). The Danish women are old friends and very much hippies. They were great. The Austrian woman was a little more straight but very funny. The four of us made quite a sight. We have spent the last few days more or less together. We also spent time having coffee and walking with Bernard from Germany, but he went ahead so he could be alone when he arrived. After a million pictures and hugs and kisses, I checked into a really nice hotel. When I decided to stay at this parador, I thought that Jolynn would be so proud of me! It was a hostel for pilgrims that was built in 1499 and it is fabulous. It has beautiful furniture and tapestries and yes, great sheets. It has the same architecture as the Cathedral, which is awesome too. Then I sat in the sun on my window ledge and I called my sisters and daughters and was so happy. It felt like finishing a marathon. All you can think is "I did it." Along the way, we all say "if I make it to Santiago" and then one moment, here you are.
I went to the Cathedral early this morning so that I could gather my thoughts and meditate a bit before mass. I saw an empty spot in the pews on the side of the altar and asked the woman sitting there if she was saving the spot. Oh no she said. I sat. Then I realized i was sitting with 50 or so Japanese tourists and the tour director stood up and gave his talk on the church. It was great. He was like a stand up comedian, with the dramatic gestures and bad jokes of any tour guide. It was all in Japanese of course, but no matter. I knew what he was saying.
Mass was about to begin when Bernard walked in and sat next to me. Minute later Dirk walked in (25, Danish)and we hugged. I haven´t seen him for many days and only talked once or twice but we always were happy to see each other. The Japanese woman next to me then realized we were pilgrims and they started to cry. Bernard started to cry as soon as mass started, he said I guess today is my day to cry. We held hands and smiled at each other all during mass. (One time I described the deep feelings that spring up on the walk as feeling the way it does when you are in grade school and one day you meet a new friend who is just wonderful and you have so much fun playing together. It´s that kind of joy I have felt with people.) We went up to receive communion together. When Bernard came back to the pew, he told me that the woman in front of him put the wafer in her purse!!! She put the Host in her purse? When I was growing up, you couldn't touch the Host, you could barely look at it. I think it would have been a mortal sin to take it home with you. We couldn't stop laughing. We wondered if it was going into her photo album when she got home.
They read a list of the countries of the pilgrims who had finished the walk the day before. I did hear "una americana" d'Arles (the place where I started). I was so proud to be una americana and to have finished the walk.
Well then, the show began. We were lucky enough to be at a mass where they swing this enormous incense burner somewhere near the end of the service. I mean swing and I mean enormous. Four men pull on a rope to start the burner swinging and it goes to the ceiling of the Cathedral, back and forth filling the church with incense. Imagine this. There are maybe 6 or 7 cardinals in beautiful red vestments standing behind the altar. The altar and altarpiece are all gold. The altar is covered in embroidered linen. The incense burner is gold and maybe four feet high and vessel shaped. It is hanging down from the highest point of the Cathedral, about 6 feet from the floor. There are lit candles all over the place. Someone is singing in the purest voice and the incense slowly fills the church. Fabulous.
I said to Bernard, who is Lutheran, that a priest once told me that Luther was right in most things but he was wrong to throw out the sensual part of the Church. Boy oh boy, give me good incense and light and music and I´m happy to be a Catholic. Sorry. I know there is more to being Catholic, but it´s the light, the smells, the songs that I most love.
After about 5 minutes the swinging slows and a man braces himself and grabs the burner and swings around with it to stop it. I wanted to clap. The Japanese started to and everyone joined in. Yea. Bravo.
So maybe this is the end of my story here. I leave on Friday morning for Madrid and then home. If something unexpected happens, I´ll let you know. I couldn´t expect anything more. I don´t need anything more. I am in absolute awe when I think of the blessings I have been given each day and with each encounter I have had. Thank you for listening and sharing this journey with me.
Love,
Una americana, Mary, Mom, Nonna
Wednesday, October 17, 2007
Saturday, October 13, 2007
Palais de Rei
Here I am again in an albergue after another beautiful days walk. I walked 24k, starting off in the fog and finishing under beautiful clear blue skies. From now on I think the most interesting part, though, will be the people I have gotten to know along the way. I just got back from the grocery store and met 6 or 7 people in the two blocks between the store and the albergue who knew my name and asked how my day was. We are all focused on Santiago, which is only 63k away. I will walk 27, 26 and 20 and be in Santiago. I have a reservation in a hotel and can´t wait to sleep alone, on fabulous sheets, take a bath if I feel like it, walk around naked in my room, sleep till ten if I feel like it, leave my backpack in the room and float around the town. I want to show my creditiale that I have had stamped every night and be certified as a genuine pilgrim. I can´t wait to hear my name read in the Cathedral after mass. I want to go to communion.
This has been very hard and very rewarding every day. I will miss it and at the same time am so happy it´s almost over.
( oh my god. The shoop shoop song is playing in this bar!!! Cher´s version, the one I practiced with for Erika and Alison´s weddings. I want to get up and sing. But where are my backup singers?)
I have tried to send emails to you guys and they are getting returned so here are some messages.
Ginny-please make and appointment for me and make it long. I need a lot of work and I want to talk your ear off.
Paul- ASAP I should have a fat test done. I don´t think I have a lot left. At least it´s as low as it will ever be. I want a record of this moment in time.
( I have a funny bra story to tell but maybe this is not the time.)
Rita- My spirits told me you are coming home for an early thanksgiving. Is that true? I would love for all of my sisters to be together to celebrate.
Oscar- I haven´t had a butterfly kiss for so long, do you still give them? I want one please.
Mary M.- I think I understand the idea of non-attachment now. I want to talk with you about that when I get home.
Alison- I have thought of the Four Agreements often on this walk. Maybe I´ve learned that too.
Erika- I have drawn some and love it. I want you help me get better.
Anna- Thanks for your note. I thank your mom and dad everyday for sending me here.
Barb P.- walks along the river sound perfect to me. Whenever you want to go call me.
OK. I think that is all for now.
With love to you all,
Mom-Nonna-Mary
This has been very hard and very rewarding every day. I will miss it and at the same time am so happy it´s almost over.
( oh my god. The shoop shoop song is playing in this bar!!! Cher´s version, the one I practiced with for Erika and Alison´s weddings. I want to get up and sing. But where are my backup singers?)
I have tried to send emails to you guys and they are getting returned so here are some messages.
Ginny-please make and appointment for me and make it long. I need a lot of work and I want to talk your ear off.
Paul- ASAP I should have a fat test done. I don´t think I have a lot left. At least it´s as low as it will ever be. I want a record of this moment in time.
( I have a funny bra story to tell but maybe this is not the time.)
Rita- My spirits told me you are coming home for an early thanksgiving. Is that true? I would love for all of my sisters to be together to celebrate.
Oscar- I haven´t had a butterfly kiss for so long, do you still give them? I want one please.
Mary M.- I think I understand the idea of non-attachment now. I want to talk with you about that when I get home.
Alison- I have thought of the Four Agreements often on this walk. Maybe I´ve learned that too.
Erika- I have drawn some and love it. I want you help me get better.
Anna- Thanks for your note. I thank your mom and dad everyday for sending me here.
Barb P.- walks along the river sound perfect to me. Whenever you want to go call me.
OK. I think that is all for now.
With love to you all,
Mom-Nonna-Mary
Wednesday, October 10, 2007
Passion flowers and cows- going to Galicia
Hi,
I am now in Galicia, the green corner of Spain. It reminds me so much of Ireland, folds of green hills dotted with cows and sheep. Yesterday and today I walked to two high points on the Camino, I gained 500 meters in 10k. It was very steep and so much fun to do. I love going up hill. The weather has been unbelievable warm and clear. Yesterday I walked from Villafranca to O Cebreio. Isn´t that a beautiful name? I will tell you the passion flower story first. Remember when I said I walked with a Spanish man who showed me all those great herbs? Well, starting out of Villafranca he started to walk with me again. He doesn´t speak English but we were able to communicate pretty well. His name is Enrique. While we were walking he picked a passion flower and attached it to my packpack. They are gorgeous by the way. We walked for a while and then I stopped for coffee and he went on. Later he called to me from a park where he was having lunch. I also saw a German woman who I knew from before and who is about his age I would guess ( 38-40) and we all talked. I went on. About an hour later Enrique and the German woman passed by me. They waved; she had a passion flower on her backpack. Yesterday I saw them in O Cebreio and they invited me to have a glass of wine with them. Enrique showed us the pictures on his camera and there was one of me. He explained to the German woman and she to me that he thought I was a "chickas" and tried to get a picture of me but I was too fast for him to get a close up. He thought we were the same age and that I had white hair just like he does and he wanted to meet me because I was a strong walker. And here I thought he was a biologist.
The cow. As I entered O Cebreio on a narrow path( let´s say three cow widths) a herd of cows started toward me. I thought we could share the path and I just stood off to the side. They kept coming closer, with the man herding them following at the back. The cows were pushing one another and the guy was yelling at them and poking them with a stick. They weren´t that nice to one another. I caught the eye of the cow coming toward me and I saw her say "traveler, you have ten seconds to get out of my way." Her horns were really big, as was she. Luckily I found a step in the stone wall to get up on and they passed without incident.
Last night I stayed in a hotel because the night before I got no sleep. I went out to dinner with three people from Canada and when I got back to my hotel, the barman showed me how to unlock the door to let myself out in the morning. I was the only one staying in the hotel and he was going home. So I spent the night alone in a hotel-bar. When I got into bed I smelled something really sweet and nice and I thought it was a fabric softener. As I lay in the dark the smell became more familiar- it was Raid. I think they sprayed the bed to kill bed bugs. Good and bad. I turned the light back on, checked for anything crawling. Nothing. I turned off the light and had a great sleep.
That´s all from here. I can´t wait to see you guys a week from Friday. Alison,Adam, Erika, Benji and Oscar, I hope we can have dinner maybe at the BLB. What do you think?
Love,
Mom-Mary
I am now in Galicia, the green corner of Spain. It reminds me so much of Ireland, folds of green hills dotted with cows and sheep. Yesterday and today I walked to two high points on the Camino, I gained 500 meters in 10k. It was very steep and so much fun to do. I love going up hill. The weather has been unbelievable warm and clear. Yesterday I walked from Villafranca to O Cebreio. Isn´t that a beautiful name? I will tell you the passion flower story first. Remember when I said I walked with a Spanish man who showed me all those great herbs? Well, starting out of Villafranca he started to walk with me again. He doesn´t speak English but we were able to communicate pretty well. His name is Enrique. While we were walking he picked a passion flower and attached it to my packpack. They are gorgeous by the way. We walked for a while and then I stopped for coffee and he went on. Later he called to me from a park where he was having lunch. I also saw a German woman who I knew from before and who is about his age I would guess ( 38-40) and we all talked. I went on. About an hour later Enrique and the German woman passed by me. They waved; she had a passion flower on her backpack. Yesterday I saw them in O Cebreio and they invited me to have a glass of wine with them. Enrique showed us the pictures on his camera and there was one of me. He explained to the German woman and she to me that he thought I was a "chickas" and tried to get a picture of me but I was too fast for him to get a close up. He thought we were the same age and that I had white hair just like he does and he wanted to meet me because I was a strong walker. And here I thought he was a biologist.
The cow. As I entered O Cebreio on a narrow path( let´s say three cow widths) a herd of cows started toward me. I thought we could share the path and I just stood off to the side. They kept coming closer, with the man herding them following at the back. The cows were pushing one another and the guy was yelling at them and poking them with a stick. They weren´t that nice to one another. I caught the eye of the cow coming toward me and I saw her say "traveler, you have ten seconds to get out of my way." Her horns were really big, as was she. Luckily I found a step in the stone wall to get up on and they passed without incident.
Last night I stayed in a hotel because the night before I got no sleep. I went out to dinner with three people from Canada and when I got back to my hotel, the barman showed me how to unlock the door to let myself out in the morning. I was the only one staying in the hotel and he was going home. So I spent the night alone in a hotel-bar. When I got into bed I smelled something really sweet and nice and I thought it was a fabric softener. As I lay in the dark the smell became more familiar- it was Raid. I think they sprayed the bed to kill bed bugs. Good and bad. I turned the light back on, checked for anything crawling. Nothing. I turned off the light and had a great sleep.
That´s all from here. I can´t wait to see you guys a week from Friday. Alison,Adam, Erika, Benji and Oscar, I hope we can have dinner maybe at the BLB. What do you think?
Love,
Mom-Mary
Sunday, October 7, 2007
Sunday
Hi Everyone,
Once again I can´t remember the name of the town I am in ( oh I found it! It´s Ponferrada.). I arrived about 30 minutes ago, took a shower and here I am. The last two days have been really beautiful. I am in the mountains, walking by myself and it is so quiet and peaceful and gorgeous all I can do is say Thank You , Thank You Thank you. I just am so grateful I am here.
Last night I stayed in an almost deserted mountain town. There are two albergues, luckily I got the good one, the one that served paella and great wine for 7E. I wasn´t sure when I saw my bed, it was the top bunk again and when I tried to climb into it, the bed started to tip. I waited until a big guy climbed in the bottom bunk and everything was fine. There were two love birds cuddling in one sleeping bag. This was a first. They were just off to my side and although English wasn´t their first language, it was the common one. I thought I was listening to an old movie, they called each other darling all evening. It was like listening to Cary Grant and Audrey Hepburn on an early date. I was happy to have my iPod to go to sleep with.
One my walk today a sort of young Spanish man (fellow pilgrim)started walking near me and pointed out wild thyme, lavender and a really great smelling plant I didn´t recognize. Now that is three times I have walked with guys from Europe who show me plants! There must be some herb message I am suppose to get. What a bunch of tender sensual guys. I wonder if he is a Biology teacher or something.
.There were more sheep today, and bells and shepards. I love this. I only have 8 more days to walk and so every morning when I start, I say a prayer that I see all that there is there for me to see. Sometimes I will be talking to myself and then I look up and catch my breath by the beauty. And every minute it changes!
At this albergue I ran into Andres, a young guy who I last saw in Jaca. He is still walking and happy I am too. I wonder where he has been?
There are people waiting to talk to their friends on this computer, so I.m going to say goodbye. I will be back soon.
Love,
Mary Mom
Once again I can´t remember the name of the town I am in ( oh I found it! It´s Ponferrada.). I arrived about 30 minutes ago, took a shower and here I am. The last two days have been really beautiful. I am in the mountains, walking by myself and it is so quiet and peaceful and gorgeous all I can do is say Thank You , Thank You Thank you. I just am so grateful I am here.
Last night I stayed in an almost deserted mountain town. There are two albergues, luckily I got the good one, the one that served paella and great wine for 7E. I wasn´t sure when I saw my bed, it was the top bunk again and when I tried to climb into it, the bed started to tip. I waited until a big guy climbed in the bottom bunk and everything was fine. There were two love birds cuddling in one sleeping bag. This was a first. They were just off to my side and although English wasn´t their first language, it was the common one. I thought I was listening to an old movie, they called each other darling all evening. It was like listening to Cary Grant and Audrey Hepburn on an early date. I was happy to have my iPod to go to sleep with.
One my walk today a sort of young Spanish man (fellow pilgrim)started walking near me and pointed out wild thyme, lavender and a really great smelling plant I didn´t recognize. Now that is three times I have walked with guys from Europe who show me plants! There must be some herb message I am suppose to get. What a bunch of tender sensual guys. I wonder if he is a Biology teacher or something.
.There were more sheep today, and bells and shepards. I love this. I only have 8 more days to walk and so every morning when I start, I say a prayer that I see all that there is there for me to see. Sometimes I will be talking to myself and then I look up and catch my breath by the beauty. And every minute it changes!
At this albergue I ran into Andres, a young guy who I last saw in Jaca. He is still walking and happy I am too. I wonder where he has been?
There are people waiting to talk to their friends on this computer, so I.m going to say goodbye. I will be back soon.
Love,
Mary Mom
Thursday, October 4, 2007
Leon
Hi everyone,
I was in Leon yesterday. It is so beutiful, the cathedral especially. It is all stained glass windows. I felt like I was in a kaleidiscope. Oh, it was beatuiful. The day was cold and really rainy. It just poured. I had a very short walk, something like 15k and stayed at a Dominican albergue. It was fine. When I left in the morning for Leon, I left my guide book in the albergue, probably on the top bunk. I am pretty sad about that. It was my buddy and I had some notes in it, but it's gone unless someone fast carries it to me. On the other hand, while I looked for my guide, I found my knife! It fell into the lining of my backpack. I also threw out my water system because it sprung a leak. Also I got my hair cut off. It was hanging in my eyes in the rain. I walked into a salon and said I want something hip, please. It looks good. Then later I bought a guide book. The only one available in English. I felt it was too heavy, a woman I had dinner with last night and I decided it was at least 2 lbs. but I bought it anyway. Halfway through my walk today, I decided it was too heavy and was going to throw it out. I was in a park having lunch and looking at the trash basket when a man walked up to join me for lunch. You guys are so smart you already know what happened. He was from Ireland and asked if he could look at my book because he didn't have one. I said here, keep it. So, no hair in the eyes, my knife back, no heavy burden from the book and a beautiful sunny peaceful walk. I will be in Astorga tomorrow night. I saw the mountain range that we will hike over. This time instead of being ominous it looks exciting to me. I can't wait to go up up up and down into Sanitago. Although I guess it's up and down and up and down into Santiago. Whatever, I am getting so excited. I never let myself believe that I could actually do this and it looks like I might.
I think it's time for my dinner. Have a great night.
Alison Its meant to be that I see you skate.
Jolynn thank you for making all of the reservations in NYC. I am looking forward to being with you there again.
Maggie I will try to call again.
Barb I think it I about 180 miles away. Fargo is it.
Bye again.
Love,
Mary/Mom
I was in Leon yesterday. It is so beutiful, the cathedral especially. It is all stained glass windows. I felt like I was in a kaleidiscope. Oh, it was beatuiful. The day was cold and really rainy. It just poured. I had a very short walk, something like 15k and stayed at a Dominican albergue. It was fine. When I left in the morning for Leon, I left my guide book in the albergue, probably on the top bunk. I am pretty sad about that. It was my buddy and I had some notes in it, but it's gone unless someone fast carries it to me. On the other hand, while I looked for my guide, I found my knife! It fell into the lining of my backpack. I also threw out my water system because it sprung a leak. Also I got my hair cut off. It was hanging in my eyes in the rain. I walked into a salon and said I want something hip, please. It looks good. Then later I bought a guide book. The only one available in English. I felt it was too heavy, a woman I had dinner with last night and I decided it was at least 2 lbs. but I bought it anyway. Halfway through my walk today, I decided it was too heavy and was going to throw it out. I was in a park having lunch and looking at the trash basket when a man walked up to join me for lunch. You guys are so smart you already know what happened. He was from Ireland and asked if he could look at my book because he didn't have one. I said here, keep it. So, no hair in the eyes, my knife back, no heavy burden from the book and a beautiful sunny peaceful walk. I will be in Astorga tomorrow night. I saw the mountain range that we will hike over. This time instead of being ominous it looks exciting to me. I can't wait to go up up up and down into Sanitago. Although I guess it's up and down and up and down into Santiago. Whatever, I am getting so excited. I never let myself believe that I could actually do this and it looks like I might.
I think it's time for my dinner. Have a great night.
Alison Its meant to be that I see you skate.
Jolynn thank you for making all of the reservations in NYC. I am looking forward to being with you there again.
Maggie I will try to call again.
Barb I think it I about 180 miles away. Fargo is it.
Bye again.
Love,
Mary/Mom
Monday, October 1, 2007
El Burgo Ranero
Hi
Just another quick note because things have been a little boring. I am walking in land that looks like Nebraska. And like Nebraska it will last for another day. I will be in Leon the night after next and I hear that from then on it is beautiful again. I have been walking alone, even telling people that I prefer to walk alone and that I.ll see them at lunch or dinner. I had dinner and breakfast with two really fun German women. There are 6 single women that I keep running into. There are so many single women on the Camino now. It is very much fun. Today I took a break at a picnic table and before I had finished my lunch, six people were eating together' an Italian, 2 Germans, 2 Belgians, a French woman and me. And God love them, they all speak English.
I guess I wasn't clear about Dominique. He left with a handshake one morning. He was as irritated with me as I was with him and so I told him if he was so annoyed he should just go. I am so relieved to not have to have him hovering over me. I was really clear that I appreciated all that he did for me, so we parted cooly but politely. I saw him once and he told me how far he walked and where to eat. brother.
They great thing about yesterday was the morning. Sunrise with storks flying just overhead. They look just like the drawings but without the babies.
That's all until I am in awe again. I love you all.
MomMary
Just another quick note because things have been a little boring. I am walking in land that looks like Nebraska. And like Nebraska it will last for another day. I will be in Leon the night after next and I hear that from then on it is beautiful again. I have been walking alone, even telling people that I prefer to walk alone and that I.ll see them at lunch or dinner. I had dinner and breakfast with two really fun German women. There are 6 single women that I keep running into. There are so many single women on the Camino now. It is very much fun. Today I took a break at a picnic table and before I had finished my lunch, six people were eating together' an Italian, 2 Germans, 2 Belgians, a French woman and me. And God love them, they all speak English.
I guess I wasn't clear about Dominique. He left with a handshake one morning. He was as irritated with me as I was with him and so I told him if he was so annoyed he should just go. I am so relieved to not have to have him hovering over me. I was really clear that I appreciated all that he did for me, so we parted cooly but politely. I saw him once and he told me how far he walked and where to eat. brother.
They great thing about yesterday was the morning. Sunrise with storks flying just overhead. They look just like the drawings but without the babies.
That's all until I am in awe again. I love you all.
MomMary
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