Santiago

Hello everyone,
I have been waiting for the tears that everyone else has had and not me, until now, when I typed "Santiago". I know I have avoided this message because it is the end and I would like this to go on forever. The peace and love (really it´s the only word that fits) that I have felt on this journey is something I want to keep with me forever. That will be my prayer.
I did arrive yesterday, on a beautiful warm fall day. I walked in with two women from Denmark (Luna and Pulje) and an Austrian woman ( Monica). The Danish women are old friends and very much hippies. They were great. The Austrian woman was a little more straight but very funny. The four of us made quite a sight. We have spent the last few days more or less together. We also spent time having coffee and walking with Bernard from Germany, but he went ahead so he could be alone when he arrived. After a million pictures and hugs and kisses, I checked into a really nice hotel. When I decided to stay at this parador, I thought that Jolynn would be so proud of me! It was a hostel for pilgrims that was built in 1499 and it is fabulous. It has beautiful furniture and tapestries and yes, great sheets. It has the same architecture as the Cathedral, which is awesome too. Then I sat in the sun on my window ledge and I called my sisters and daughters and was so happy. It felt like finishing a marathon. All you can think is "I did it." Along the way, we all say "if I make it to Santiago" and then one moment, here you are.
I went to the Cathedral early this morning so that I could gather my thoughts and meditate a bit before mass. I saw an empty spot in the pews on the side of the altar and asked the woman sitting there if she was saving the spot. Oh no she said. I sat. Then I realized i was sitting with 50 or so Japanese tourists and the tour director stood up and gave his talk on the church. It was great. He was like a stand up comedian, with the dramatic gestures and bad jokes of any tour guide. It was all in Japanese of course, but no matter. I knew what he was saying.
Mass was about to begin when Bernard walked in and sat next to me. Minute later Dirk walked in (25, Danish)and we hugged. I haven´t seen him for many days and only talked once or twice but we always were happy to see each other. The Japanese woman next to me then realized we were pilgrims and they started to cry. Bernard started to cry as soon as mass started, he said I guess today is my day to cry. We held hands and smiled at each other all during mass. (One time I described the deep feelings that spring up on the walk as feeling the way it does when you are in grade school and one day you meet a new friend who is just wonderful and you have so much fun playing together. It´s that kind of joy I have felt with people.) We went up to receive communion together. When Bernard came back to the pew, he told me that the woman in front of him put the wafer in her purse!!! She put the Host in her purse? When I was growing up, you couldn't touch the Host, you could barely look at it. I think it would have been a mortal sin to take it home with you. We couldn't stop laughing. We wondered if it was going into her photo album when she got home.
They read a list of the countries of the pilgrims who had finished the walk the day before. I did hear "una americana" d'Arles (the place where I started). I was so proud to be una americana and to have finished the walk.
Well then, the show began. We were lucky enough to be at a mass where they swing this enormous incense burner somewhere near the end of the service. I mean swing and I mean enormous. Four men pull on a rope to start the burner swinging and it goes to the ceiling of the Cathedral, back and forth filling the church with incense. Imagine this. There are maybe 6 or 7 cardinals in beautiful red vestments standing behind the altar. The altar and altarpiece are all gold. The altar is covered in embroidered linen. The incense burner is gold and maybe four feet high and vessel shaped. It is hanging down from the highest point of the Cathedral, about 6 feet from the floor. There are lit candles all over the place. Someone is singing in the purest voice and the incense slowly fills the church. Fabulous.
I said to Bernard, who is Lutheran, that a priest once told me that Luther was right in most things but he was wrong to throw out the sensual part of the Church. Boy oh boy, give me good incense and light and music and I´m happy to be a Catholic. Sorry. I know there is more to being Catholic, but it´s the light, the smells, the songs that I most love.
After about 5 minutes the swinging slows and a man braces himself and grabs the burner and swings around with it to stop it. I wanted to clap. The Japanese started to and everyone joined in. Yea. Bravo.
So maybe this is the end of my story here. I leave on Friday morning for Madrid and then home. If something unexpected happens, I´ll let you know. I couldn´t expect anything more. I don´t need anything more. I am in absolute awe when I think of the blessings I have been given each day and with each encounter I have had. Thank you for listening and sharing this journey with me.
Love,
Una americana, Mary, Mom, Nonna