Wednesday, September 26, 2007

more changes in Spain

Hi everybody,
I am in Burgos today. It is a gorgeous big city and I am staying in a hotel with fabulous sheets. I am alone, or rather by myself. It seems like things changed fast, but then, they always do. I can hardly tell you what happened, it happened so fast. You know that I have had a hard time with Dominique for a while. As I have gotten more confident about being here, he is more critical. He hates having to tell me anything, and I hate not knowing what's happening. He wants to leave earlier and go faster every day and I want to slow down so it doesn't go by too fast. But when Domenico joined us, it was fun. We laughed so much. I was having so much fun and I thought they were too. But in the end, once Dominique arrived in Spain he got more and more driven. He wants to leave early and go fast. Domenico is tired of walking so fast and wants to spend more time working out some problems. He really wants to walk alone. It is in my nature to gather people together and so I was really sad. I imagined us walking into Santiago together and celebrating. Althought Domenico hasonly walked with us for 10 days or so he been so sweet about it all. We had some very sweet and tender talks, in my limited Italian. The night before we parted he sat me down to go over the hard parts of the walk that are coming up. Then he said, Mary no posso andare con te. I can´t go with you. I started to cry a little and he said " perche piange Mary?" Why are you crying? I said I am so sad. He said I know, but why do you cry? I said "oh, it helps get the bad feeling that is inside of me out." He said " I can´t cry Mary." Then he said let´s go eat.
In the morning, Domenico found a woman who could translate for him. He told me how much he enjoyed walking with me and how much I added to his camino and that he would never forget our time together. He held my face in his hands and said again non posso andare con te. And he was crying. Dominique simply shook my hand and said good-bye.
Even though I still am sad when I think about saying good-bye to Domenico , I know it is the best thing for me. People in the albergues often talk about how they started walking with someone and then for some reason went off on their own. I will be fine. I walked about 27k yesterday and then took a taxi about 8 k with a woman to Burgos. We went to a beautiful monastery outside of town and walked another 10k back into Burgos. We found the albergo at about 8pm. It is so cold here now ( it was 40f last night), and we were freezing. I decided that a day off with great sheets in a big town would be really nice. So I am staying tonight. We will have dinner later and then she leaves for holland tonight and tomorrow I will start off again. I think I am about three weeks from finishing. I am going to use them well, spending much time by myself and being thankful for it. I know that if I had stayed with Dominique/Dominico , my camino would have be less about me and more about managing our little group. Not so good.
The most interesting night the three of us had together this week was the night we spent in a garage. There were four beds, and a really nice bathroom. And of course, a garage door. We assumed we would be alone and were so happy. When we came home from dinner, we heard the shower going and saw a backpack. Oh no. A snorer! Instead a really beautiful man walked out of the bathroom. Reddish blonde hair, boxer shorts. Man alive. He was Irish, and has relatives in Eau Claire. He had walked 40k and was going out dancing.
About my clothes etc. I love my two shirts. One day I wear the orange one, the next the blue one. I love my shorts, although they may be retired. I bought long pants today. I have lost a bra and my Swiss army knife. It doesn´t matter. I have bites, and I don´t care. I haven´t worn lipstick more than twice since I arrived. I think I look fine. My boots are holding up ok, they will make it to Santiago with me. My socks are amazing. I have two pairs, wash the pair I wore and alternate them. I love the product Glide. I think it has helped me have fewer blisters. I love eating sardines with bread. And Spanish wine is really delicious.
Well, that´s about all. Thanks for writing. I have trouble trying to write back, the messages get rejected often. I don´t know what to do about the map. I couldn,t open the one alison sent to me.
Thanks for being there. I love your messages. I am really happy. What a great experience.
I love you.
Mom Mary

6 comments:

Anonymous said...

You are our model, Mary! I only wish that we could be here in Mpls. when you return -- to see the "new Mary", and to share what you have experienced. But we are poised to return to our AR home next Monday. Your loft is still standing; and your many friends (including the entire COL Rotary) are awaiting your return. Thank you for letting us experience your "urban" life -- during this time when you have xperienced "the world"! Continue to stay well, and we will call you after you return home.

Anonymous said...

Go Mary
Wishing I was still walking with you instead of listening to the rain beat on the roof here in England...
John (of York)

Rita said...

Sweet Sister Mary,

It is in your nature to gather people together. And this wonderful pilgrimage is yours. I am happy that you will have this last third of the journey by yourself—time to experience your camino for yourself. Dominique and Domenico have their own journeys to complete. It is wonderful that you had each other for the time you did. I am sure that Dominique and Domenico will never forget you and the time you spent together. Who knows, maybe you will all see each other in Santiago! As you have been saying, things change fast.

I think about you everyday and my heart just swells with love for you and your adventuring spirit. Not all of us could be doing what you are doing. Know that you have lots of people holding space for you and looking forward to your next adventures and marveling at all you have accomplished.

Yeah for great sheets!

Anonymous said...

Hola otra vez, Maria -

Hope all is well. I LOVE reading your blog; thank you for sharing your life - it helps us all to be with you in spirit. (Some day I will walk in Spain, I just know it.) It sounds liberating to have some time to walk solo. I hope that continues to go well. I know there are many more brave, wonderful people like you making the pilgrimage that you'll meet and have fine moments with in Spain.

I read a reply from a friend of yours that makes me so jealous. I've been reading the NYorker and dreaming of seeing two shows: KKline in Cyrano and TStoppard's Rock 'n'Roll. You lucky duck!!! Throw some kisses to Kevin and to Rufus Sewell from me, okay?

I'm leaving in a week to walk/glide on a river barge in Burgundy w/my childhood friend. We'll be in our hiking boots, but I don't know that I can call it a 'walk' any longer after reading about your adventure.

Vaya con Dios - Connie

ginnybj said...

Mary, Lunatic Lorna has been with me for 5 days! That being said (and not revealing the rest of my crazy life these days) your adventure continues to unfold in a fashion that seems a bit difficult to control sometimes, as well. I can feel that you're managing what the universe hands you -all the good and the not so good- and you're taking back YOUR WALK. You go girl! I'm pulling for you. Ginny

fisher3 said...

Hi Mary: I will be off to my Mexico adventure when you return but can't wait to see you! I am so happy for you that your adventure has been wonderful. I hope mine is good. I am proud of you for doing this!

Jean